The following tools are necessary to install the Tektro hydraulic disc brake. Disc brake calipers, rotors and pads get extremely hot when used. Serious injury. Checkout our Basic Bleed Kit to service Tektro brakes. Dealers should look into our Advanced Bleed Kit for servicing multiple brakes sets. DIRECT MOUNT BRAKES: BENEFITS, SET-UP, and INSTALLATION TIPS. How to install and adjust Cantilever, threaded post brake calipers. Questions or comments? Leave them below! Bicycle rim brakes divide into two basic types: cantilever and caliper. Just to recap: Caliper brakes are self-contained mechanisms, attached to the bicycle's frame by a single bolt for each brake, front or rear. The arms reach downward from above the tire, and need to be long enough to get around the tire. Brakes with brazed-on fittings attach to the sides of a bicycle's frame/fork, separately on each side. They require special brazed-on (or welded) fittings on the frame. The brake for each wheel consists of two separate arms, each of which is individually attached to the frame or fork. See if that is the kind of brake you need to work on. Types of Caliper Brakes. The brake cable housing attaches to one brake arm and the inner wire, to the other. ![]() ![]() The mechanism is asymmetrical; one brake arm rotates around the centerbolt and the other, around a pivot above the wheel on the side opposite the cable. A cam connects the brake arms so they move by equal and opposite amounts. High mechanical advantage makes this type of brake desirable where reach is long, if the brake also is rigid. A dual-pivot sidepull centers especially well, due to the cam connecting the brake arms. There may even be a centering adjusting screw at the cam. If asked to track a warped rim, the brake rotates around the centerbolt, tending to loosen it. The brake arm on the side with the offset pivot migrates up toward the tire as it wears. Reach is the effective length of the arms of a caliper brake. This is measured from the centerline of the center bolt diagonally down to the middle of the brake shoe. Reach is commonly expressed as a range (allowing for the fact that the brake shoes are adjustable, typically 10-15 mm). Reach dimensions can run anywhere from 39-108 mm. There has been a historical trend toward shorter-reach brakes, as newer bicycles, particularly racing-style road bikes, are designed for use with narrow tires and without clearance for fenders. The reach required for a particular installation depends on the frame construction (how low the brake mounting holes are) and the diameter. Generally, shorter-reach brakes work better, due to the reduced potential for flex and the higher mechanical advantage. Long-reach brakes must be of especially stout construction and have long arm extension between the pivot and to the cable attachment to overcome these problems. Cantilever brakes and disk brakes avoid these problems, though they have other problems. This caliper has a reach range of 39-49 mm. As shown, with the brake shoe adjusted all the way up, it measures 39 mm from the center of the bolt to the center of the brake pad. This fork and rim combination call for a brake caliper that can be adjusted to provide a 45 mm reach. Phonic firefly 302 usb driver. The caliper shown would fit. Some people refer to 'short-reach' 'normal-reach' and 'long-reach' calipers, but this is a recipe for confusion, and such terminology should be avoided. As fashion has changed, the 47-57 mm size that used to be 'normal' has become 'long' and the longer-reach calipers have become nearly extinct, aside from very long calipers. Currently, 'short-reach' calipers usually offer a range of 39-49 mm. This has become the de-facto standard for 'road' calipers, and can now be considered 'normal', though it is also correct to call it 'short.' If you need a brake with longer reach, you can effectively extend the reach by using a Long-reach dual-pivot and centerpull brakes also are made. Many newer brakes have the reach dimension marked on the back. For instance, the Shimano 600 caliper shown has a 47 - 57 mm reach range. Mounting Caliper brakes. Caliper brakes have a center bolt 6 mm or 1/4' in diameter, which fits through a matching holes in the or of the frame. Traditionally, these bolts have been long enough to protrude all the way through, to be secured by a normal hex nut and associated. When a rear brake mounts to a curved surface on the brake bridge, you must use radiused washers (as shown in the photo below) to avoid crushing the brake bridge. If the mounting surface of the front brake is not radiused to fit the fork crown, a washer with a larger radius may be needed to support the brake and avoid unnecessary stress on the brake bolt. The fork crown is strong enough that it will not crush if the nut at the rear is attached using only a flat washer or lockwasher. Secure mounting of the front brake is very important. A loose front brake will announce itself by rattling, but, unfortunately, some bicycles are already a symphony of rattles, and one more instrument may go unnoticed. If the brake comes off, the brake rotates forward with the wheel, then snags in the spokes. The cable tightens and yanks the handlebar violently to one side. The cyclist is pitched forward and may also suffer abdominal injury from the handlebar.
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